MC45L Dynamo arrives

Just bought the proper dynamo for my S7 Deluxe.  The one that was on it was from a the earlier S7 model.  This one should have more current capability, since it has updated field coils, and four brushes instead of just two.  I knew it wouldn't include the bolts, so I probably will have to get those elsewhere... or use the ones that are on the bike.  It looks like its in fairly good shape for its age.

The commutator is a bit rough, but shows no signs of arcing.  It should be 100% functional.  The brush wires need routed, and the connector needs fastened down too, but it looks like its all there.  I may have to dress up the seal surface on the back of the rotor if I decide to use it. There's some pitting.  Its kinda a shame that the cover has been bead-blasted.  I would have preferred that it still had the original patina.  That's not to say that I couldn't GIVE it some patina.  Hmmm.

Hopefully, this all works and I can sell the older Lucas MC45O dynamo that's on the bike now to someone who needs it to make their original bike proper. (sold it!)

New Seat Belts

I finally got tired of the single-sided retractable seat belts that were in my Imp when I bought it.  They kept retracting back behind the seats and you couldn't fasten your belt unless the door was open. If you let it loose, it would slam against the door pocket and disappear behind the seat.

I sent away for some new proper ones.  My friend Nick was kind enough to supply me with some Sunbeam stickers for the buckles.  They look pretty snappy!

Sunbeam S7 in the press

I was thumbing through the AMA magazine from September 1955, and I discovered a treasure. Here was an article reviewing the uniqueness of the S7 and then a page or so later a nearly full page advert.

Thinking of warmer weather

Ahh.  If it were only warmer out...  with less SALT in the environment.

Cheap Rubber Parts

Grrrr.  Why after only 5 years or so must I replace the fork gaitor rubbers?  There's original rubber on the bike that's still holding up.  Cheap new stuff.  The new foot rest rubbers didn't even last 2 years.  I put the original foot rest rubbers back on.  Nothing against the vendor I got the stuff from, its just that this new rubber isn't the same as the original stuff.  The rubber foot rests on the S7 are like new after 50 years!!!  These gaitors didn't even last 5.  You can see where I tried to hold it together with glue until I could get them replaced.

I hope the new ones last a bit longer.

The operation of doing this work oneself is a bit tricky.  First position the ATV lift.  Then find out that the ATV lift doesn't really line up with the center of gravity of the bike.  The side stand is in the way.  Then use boards to lift AROUND the sidestand.  Strap it to the lift so it doesn't tip.  Put a trolley jack under the rear wheel, since when the front wheel comes off, the center of gravity will shift significantly rearward.  Then for extra insurance rope it to the ceiling rafters to prevent tipping when wrestling with the forks, and tightening the bolts.

Clutch cable fixed, oil changed, ready to go back on the road.  Wow, the old girl is photogenic.... doesn't look that good in real life.

I just might bend the snot out of the center stand arm, so it will clear my shorty exhaust mufflers.  Its a pain putting it back on all the time for service work.  Its much easier when its permanently attached.

Keyswitch overhaul

I wasn't happy with the broken light switch handle on my Sunbeam S7 Deluxe. I managed to score a pretty beat up electrical box from an S7 on ebay, which included a switch. The switch was worse shape than I thought when it arrived. Apparently the early models used steel setscrews, which rusted in place. This meant I had to drill them out and re-create some brass ones.

Disassembly was easy. First the back retaining stud for the tumblers had to be released from its fastening nut. This was easily done, by snapping the stud accidentally. *whoopsie* The front bezel turns and then comes off through some slots. This allows everything to come apart.

Making a key was easy.  I just inserted the blank into the tumblers and then marked each tumbler position.  Then I estimated the depth of each notch in the key, and began cutting with a dremel grinding disc.

The hard part was drilling out the setscrews.  I only buggered up one thread by accidentally drilling crooked, the others came out without a problem.

The contacts were cleaned up and new setscrews fashioned.  The original spring was shot, so a new one had to be made.  This allowed the lamp switch to operate smoothly, but with enough pressure to make contact with the position detents.  This picture was taken before the brass contacts were cleaned up and polished.

I had to drill out the fitting that the tumbler snaps into, and put a tap new stud in it.  I made it long enough to fit two jam nuts on the end.

The switch assembles as easy as it came apart.  The tumbler can actually snap in last.  This makes the assembly MUCH easier.

Clutch Cable SNAPS

What do you do when your clutch cable pulls out of the end crimp, and you are 200 miles from home?  You bodge it.  On close inspection the crimp end just pulled out of its solder.  The wire itself wasn't bent over in the channel provided to give extra strength.

Luckily the cable was long enough to tolerate some of the sheath being cut off.  This was harder than it looked, since the outer casing is made of really hard spring steel.  We broke a pair of dikes cutting it.  I then took the extra-long exposed cable and lashed it to the handle.  Vice grips were used to hold it in place, while a hose clamp was applied as extra protection.  The travel was compromised so the clutch dragged a lot, but enabled me to catch it in gear and get going when stopped.  It held the whole way home.



It was easy as long as I didn't have to stop.  Traffic was a problem, but not insurmountable.  Once I got the procedure down, I was able to push myself and catch it in first.