Keyswitch overhaul

I wasn't happy with the broken light switch handle on my Sunbeam S7 Deluxe. I managed to score a pretty beat up electrical box from an S7 on ebay, which included a switch. The switch was worse shape than I thought when it arrived. Apparently the early models used steel setscrews, which rusted in place. This meant I had to drill them out and re-create some brass ones.

Disassembly was easy. First the back retaining stud for the tumblers had to be released from its fastening nut. This was easily done, by snapping the stud accidentally. *whoopsie* The front bezel turns and then comes off through some slots. This allows everything to come apart.

Making a key was easy.  I just inserted the blank into the tumblers and then marked each tumbler position.  Then I estimated the depth of each notch in the key, and began cutting with a dremel grinding disc.

The hard part was drilling out the setscrews.  I only buggered up one thread by accidentally drilling crooked, the others came out without a problem.

The contacts were cleaned up and new setscrews fashioned.  The original spring was shot, so a new one had to be made.  This allowed the lamp switch to operate smoothly, but with enough pressure to make contact with the position detents.  This picture was taken before the brass contacts were cleaned up and polished.

I had to drill out the fitting that the tumbler snaps into, and put a tap new stud in it.  I made it long enough to fit two jam nuts on the end.

The switch assembles as easy as it came apart.  The tumbler can actually snap in last.  This makes the assembly MUCH easier.

Electrical upgrades

The charging system just isn't working well enough.  I tried fiddling with the electromechanical regulator with improvement, however if I do get it working its just going to require lots of maintanence, and if it fails then I'm beside the road.  Can't have that.

Rooster Ignitions offers a solid state replacement.  It fits neatly in the original Lucas MCR2 case with the right bolt holes pre-drilled.  A little blue loctite and I bolted it back up.

The ignition system was also upgraded to a booster type solid state device.  Also provided by Rooster Ignitions, the Rooster Booster fits nicely inside the box.  It's strapped tightly to the coil, with multiple Ty Wraps, and doesn't interfere with the ammeter.  I even put a plexiglass cover over the aluminum case just in case the Ty Wraps come loose.  I don't want it to touch the screws on the back of the ammeter.

Now all I need is to install the spare bulbs in the electrical case.  What a neat idea!  I've never seen that before.  This truly is a well engineered motorcycle.