exhaust = 0.015"
intake = 0.008"
The gudgeon pin is still tight and the piston looks good as well. It can be put back in with the new standard size rings.
I went with a two-tone paint job on the block. The fins were rather rusted, so I wanted to make sure they got painted and stayed painted. So they got a 1200'F rated exhaust paint in silver. The crankcase got a 500'F rated engine paint in black. The exhaust elbow was rusted fast, but the threaded adapter to the exhaust pipe still had good threads, so that's staying. I just need to obtain a new mating nut and olive for the exhaust. It looks like an electrical fitting.
I had my son help with the arts and crafts. Making measurements and cutting gaskets is a tedious task, but still enjoyable. I started with some relatively thick gasket material for the tappet cover, point cover, and oil pan. The bearing housings require some adjustment based on axial float of the crankshaft. I made them out of thin material as templates. I can go back and duplicate these easily when I get the crank set in, if the float needs increased to meet spec in the manual.
On closer inspection there are marks on the inside of the timing gears. It looks like someone has had this engine apart before, since the cam gear has a awl scratch on it pointing to the correct place between the timing teeth. The manual says to set the timing based on the outside of the gears, which is presently obstructed by the main bearing. Timing will have to be set by the inside viewing through the bottom of the crankcase.
