Jet Block knocked out and cleaned

Many thanks to all the members of Classic Glory who helped me along the way.  I wouldn't have been able to do this without support.

There was some question whether I had the right Amal carburettor.  I confirmed all the parts measured the right specs according to everyone's input.  The only thing I hadn't done was to remove the jet block from the carb body.  All the self-help information said NOT to do this.  Well, I couldn't very well make it any worse could I?  So I heated up the carb body and used some wooden blocks to dislodge and knock the jet block from the carb body.  I found some considerable filth lurking in there.  Certainly a few of the passageways were blocked.  I scrubbed it clean with a toothbrush and some parts cleaner.  Then followed up with carb cleaner and compressed air.  Don't worry about the dremel... I wasn't using that on the carb.  The former owner must have soldered the pieces of wire to the adjuster screws.  That's a pain in the neck when all the surrounding parts are HOT and you can't use a screwdriver.

No one was around to capture my victory lap on video, so this photo at the neighbor's house will have to do.

Oil Pressure Gauge

I decided that the oil switch (however reliable on the bench) is not sufficient for determining what's going on with the oil pressure.  Thanks to Tiger Tom, we made an adapter out of a 1/8" Tee and cut off drilled 7/16" bolt.  The switch now hangs under the spark cover, and the spark cover has been moved outward by 1/2"... this accommodates the 3/16" copper line that runs to a pressure gauge out of a Sunbeam Alpine  (So generously donated by Tiger Tom).  I should just be able to glance down between my leg and the seat to see the gauge.

I'll allow the Permatex "Right Stuff" used to seal the adapter to the block to set up for a day or so.  Then fire it up and see what the oil pressure is.

Started on 3rd kick

It was glorious!!!

I simply checked the spark, squirted some extra oil on the camshaft, and put fuel in.  It started on the 3rd kick.

KYL95 is looking good here shining in the fluorescent glow of my workshop.

Now the remaining issues...  The oil light doesn't go out.  So, I checked that with a gauge... a gauge that was too small.  It produces over 10 psi and pegged the gauge, so I'm good there.  Must be the switch, although it checked good last time I checked it a year ago.  Maybe the contacts are stuck?

I'd like to put a T in the line and monitor the oil pressure with a permanent gauge.  Anyone know what kind of thread that is?  Or should I go back to Stewart Engineering and get the adapter and a modern oil switch?

Second issue.  The charge indicator stays on, which indicates more trouble.  I'll try checking the case ground and then tickling the field coil again and see if that does anything.  I recall having an earthing issue on the dynamo casing when I first started working on the bike back in October.  There is the chance that the voltage regulator isn't working right, but that will take some time to debug.

Overall I'm very happy.  It starts amazing easily.  I didn't let it warm up properly enough to turn off the strangler.  That will be the real test, because before it popped and chugged and carried on like crazy before with the old loose & leaky throttle slide.  This new throttle slide is a little on the tight side... The return spring BEARLY overcomes the friction to close the throttle.

Exhausting Work

I saw a familiar face in "ON THE BEAM" magazine last evening.  Its a great publication.  I didn't expect to see my own face and a picture of KYL95 take up a whole page.

The exhaust wrap is coming along to cover over my patches on the header pipe.  I made some of my own wrap ties out of stainless strips, but I couldn't get them sufficiently tight for my liking.  I had to resort to hose clamps as I used on my XS650.  I think the #2 clamp needs moved up a little to make it look even.  Tonight I will add the protective high temperature paint.

I had to make a little bracket to hold the front of the silencer.  Originally it was bodged with a solid piece of pipe.  That didn't work too well with a rubber mounted engine.  I used a reducer that came with the silencers I got for the XS650.  It fits inside the flexible joint and inside the new silencer.  The hose clamp pinches down on both of them and holds the bracket as well.  The new silencer is WAY TOO shiny for the rest of the bike.  I couldn't see using the original as it was dented from when the bike was laid over some time in the past, and there's nothing left inside.  It won't be tossed, but I'll run with the new silencer.  Unfortunately, the rear bolt for the silencer is stripped.  I can't tell if the thread in the frame is stripped too, but to make everything tight I used a smaller bolt and put a nut and lock washer on the back.

The replacement carb throttle slide finally came in from England !!!  Many thanks to Nigel who sent it a month ago.  I don't know if it got stuck in customs or what.  I immediately unpacked it and test-fitted it in the carburettor last evening.  Its nice and tight... maybe too tight.  Better than too loose.  All I need now is time to assemble everything.  There are a collection of BSW nuts I ordered from British Tool and Fastener expected to arrive today from New York.  That's all the parts I need.

Here's another quandry.  How do I fasten a Pennsylvania licence plate to KYL95 without disturbing  the original UK number plate?  I hate to drill out the original rivets.  I don't want to drill any additional holes, but I know the originals won't line up with a modern number plate.  I don't want it to look too bodged, even though that's what it will be.