The seat frame was really ugly. It was just all rust and no paint left, so I figured since I'm recovering the seat, then the frame needs to be restored as well. It looks rather like a medievil torture device all bead blasted.
Tiger Tom was kind enough to allow me to use the bead blaster and paint booth, since its too cold to paint outside.
It looks much better now and will be protected for years to come. You don't really see it, so I used a semi-gloss enamel finish. I should have tried an epoxy finish, but this enamel should do.
I picked up some vinyl material and some rivets to use for the cover. The rivets are chrome, so I'll most likely electroplate those brass so they don't stick out too much and make it blend into the rest of the bike.
The next task is to decide what I want to do with the exhaust header. I COULD order a new one, since this one has been patched twice, the bike was laid down on it, and its all rusted. Its a simple part to replace at a later time, if I so desire. So, I think I'll fill in the holes with the mig welder and some sheetmetal I have laying around. Then cover the nasty parts with refractory cement, and finally wrap the whole thing with fiberglass heat tape. I did this on my Yamaha XS650 and it turned out nicely. Its strictly aesthetics. No one wants to see a bunch of weld patches.
I managed to get some nice Whitworth combination spanners for a reasonable price. That made further disassembly of the bike possible.
I didn't take any pictures, but I did manage to flash the field coil of the generator, and get it to charge. Not sure if it was a good solid charge, but the red indicator light went out. That's enough for now, at least I know it may mean only an adjustment to the regulator, and that the dynamo itself is good.
Here's the bad part. I tested the oil pressure switch AGAIN, this time with a gauge T-ed into the line to measure what was going on. Its pretty conclusive that the switch is fully functional at the 8 to 10 psi range. It turns on and off fairly consistently. This is bad because on the bike, the light never goes out.
The switch is stamped 10psi.
So then I wanted to see how much actual oil pressure the bike developed running with the choke on (since that's the only way it runs right now, carb problem not fixed). I jammed a hose into the oil pressure switch port in the side of the engine. I didn't want to push oil into my gauge, so I fitted my vacuum test jar in line with the gauge, hooking the short tube to the gauge. Well, it developed a nice 8psi or so until I shut it down. I didn't think that the air space inside the jar would fill up with oil. I pumped a cup or so of oil out of the engine. WOW its green... must be that Indian oil the guy I bought it from put in it. Probably good Caster Oil based stuff.
I grabbed the camera just in time to see the oil pressure bleed back under 8psi. But it did reach 8... but I shut it down when I realized the jar was filling up... would it have made it to 10? What's an acceptable oil pressure for this engine? Should I be concerned? Is the pump bypass valve leaking, or is it worn out? Grrrr. Both mean it should be stripped down if 10psi is too low.
My new spanners got a workout while I pondered the oil pressure situation. I went straight for the tank and seat to get them out of the way. The tank is missing one mounting stud in the front left. The seat gave me some fits while I tried to dismantle it. I should have taken the front bolt out first, and left the springloaded part where it was. The seat is all nasty and rusty. Its going to be re-covered, since the original seat is basically shredded. I took the mounting bolts out of the electrical boxes too, since the lid on the one hits the frame when it closes. I think there should be a washer or something underneath to keep it from hitting when I re-assemble.
Everything is covered in 50 years of filth. It makes me want to strip it down blast it clean, and paint it. I have such an urge to polish it and paint it, even though I know I shouldn't. One thing is for certain. Someone welded ears on the front of the seat to make it higher. I'm going to take those off so the seat can sit down in the notch in the gas tank where its supposed to.
I decided to only replace the wires that needed replacing at the moment to keep it as original as possible. Some wires had already been spliced, so those may need attention depending on the security of the splice. So far what I've seen they are just wrapped together and taped up. I prefer solder and shrink tube if I have to splice.
I took off the rear fender for the first time last night. There was 50 years worth of dirt and grease under there that had to be mucked out. It was much easier to run the wiring with the fender off. Anticipating the need to remove the fender to change the rear tire, I used two barrel connectors to attach the stop and tail light wires; naturally installed in opposite directions so I don't mix up the wires.
The horn and brake light switch got hooked up too. I modified the wiring slightly from stock and ran the stop light wire down between the electrical boxes to the switch rather than in the right one and back out again. Because of the heavy insulation 105'C MTW wire I'm using it just made more sense. BEEP BEEP! That works.
The adventure came when trying to get the oil and charge indicators to work. The charge indicator had a spring left in there by someone who thought they were going to fix it. It ended up shorting out the connection inside the bulb holder and kept the light from coming on. With that removed and cleaned out with a little bare hookup wire wrapped around the bulb for extra contact along the sides the red charge indicator worked fine. (Is it supposed to be the red one?)
The oil indicator threw me for a little while before I realized that the bulbs are only 2.5v and there is an integral dropping resistor wrapped around the bulb holder fixture.... and that some genius while trying to test the bulb (me) had vaporized the end of the resistor wire. They say its the same bulb holder used on a Rover P4 (Like I'll ever find one of those in the states). A dab of solder fixed that up and I have an operational oil pressure switch light. It felt re-assuring to turn on the new key, and see indicators lamps smiling at me.
The next step is the scary part. When I fire it up, will the indicators go out? Will it charge the battery and is there enough oil pressure. I'll try that this weekend.
The S7 Deluxe does run as received. Not well, and not with much oil pressure, but it does run.
I have no KEY!!! There was a temporary toggle installed by the previous owner, so that had to go. I want a key and I want it to work. So, I took the keyswitch apart. All you do is unsolder the nut on the center of the switch assembly, then unscrew it. Then poke each of the tumblers from front to back and it pops out. I found a key that fit and then ground down the spots that didn't quite make the tumblers line up. (It happened to be a key to the back door of my grandmothers house which we changed over 30 years ago, and I was given the key to play with.) I still had it tucked away in a box... never throw anything away! Only one spot on the key had to be built up. I've got a key that works ... Fantastic!
I've finally had a few evenings to devote to the S7. There are so many things to do its hard to know where to start. The carb has been exhibiting lean tendancies with the needle in the full rich position, so I tore that apart first. The bottom of the carb was improperly assembled with the gasket material bunched up and not allowing the piece to fully seat. This caused an air gap along the inner assembly of the carb. Ah Ha... one problem solved! It was a chore to take apart. I had to mount the carb in the BIG bench vise, heat the bottom with a torch and gently apply pressure to unscrew it. The bowl needed cleaned too, it was full of junk. The main jet was clean, and the mixture screw and jet got blown out as well.
I then started wiring the back of the bike. The original wires were shot. I got the taillight re-soldered, but had to stop since I didn't have a replacement grommet for the fender. I will probably remove the fender to change the tire anyway... and to clean up 50 years of dirt from the fender. A set of barrel connectors between the fender and right-side electrical box are probably a good idea to allow easy removal of the fender without disconnecting all the wires at the terminals. One frapping screw on the brake switch is stuck. I don't want to force it and am reluctant to use the scrap of wire that's attached to it. It may have to stay since it only needs to reach the horn.
Ahhh the horn. I didn't want to pay for an original, so a VW horn is being used. It looks silly because its all bright shiny and new. Oh well.
I used an ez-out to removed a sheared screw from the dipper switch. The insulation of the wires was bad, but not completely gone, so some liquid electrical tape did the job temporarily reassembling the whole thing. The horn button was re-attached as well. Not sure its getting a good earth, so that may have to be re-visited.
I had to replace the Vulcan 1500 I sold to a workmate with something worthy. Its hard to beat watercooled, shaftdrive, comfortable like an easy-chair, and cool. Sacrifice watercooled for exotic, and upgrade to GREAT handling and I discovered the Moto Guzzi California.
74 pound-feet of torque and 70 hp.
This machine attracts more attention than most bikes which cost many times more.
Got the Clutch Warranty done and the Camshaft Recall. The hydraulic lifters seem to be behaving themselves (for the moment). It ticks a little more than I like, but its running strong.
The sucessful warranty work is no thanks to Motor-Vation of Mechanicsburg. They are complete and total idiots. NEVER buy a motorcycle from them, and NEVER take anything there for service. They kept it for 3 months arsing around, while they screwed up the camshaft re-work, set the lifters for a non-hydraulic bike. It sounded like a bucket of bolts going thru a thrashing machine. The left half the vacuum lines off so the engine wouldn't run right. They forgot to tighten the clutch adjustment locknut, which almost made me crash when I lost the clutch. Then as the ultimate sin they put the OLD oil BACK in the engine instead of replacing it. I'm glad they aren't a Guzzi dealer any longer. I had to fix it myself with the help of other dealers.
1979 - Yamaha XS650 Special The most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. This machine is totally bulletproof. I purchased it from some kid in Perry County for a few hundred bucks. It needed new main bearings, new rings, all new seals. This is how it looked when I got it.
The photo taken after the Friends of Nature 2007 tour to Bennezette, PA. Here it is shown with new seat upholstery, fork gaitors, drag bars with 4" risers, an XS750 sissy bar, Neutronics optically triggered electronic ignition, 32-tooth rear sprocket.
Here's the XS650 in the final form in 2008. The confused cruiser/chopper look was getting old. CAFE is RETRO "The Mighty One" has over 32,000 miles now and still going strong! 55mpg makes it perfect for commuting to work. XS650 supporters
How small is an Imp? Only 13 feet long and 1500 pounds. 39hp stock.
Here are our two Sunbeam Imps in the backyard.
Originally tagged as "LIL IMP", this 1967 MK2 Imp was Val's first car when she turned 16.
In 2005 we bought this 1966 Mk2 Imp, which we call Eduardo, after his original owner. Here he is on the trailer just back from picking him up in Maryland. Eduardo was plagued by low oil pressure problems and no brakes.
Here we are at the Meeting of the Marques at Allenberry Resort in 2006.
Whoa... Which one is the IMP? They all look so similar whizzing past you on the road.
